Surfing the Philippines
By Alma Nuesca & Mike Oida
Name: Michael Oida
Birthday: August 29, 1978
Home break: Tourmaline, Pacific Beach, California
Stance: Goofy
Favorite board: Board shaped by a friend, Masi Saili (9’0” x
2 7/8” x 22.5”, rounded pin tail), and another by Kevin Sullivant
(9’4” x 3” x 23”)
Epic spot: Cemento Reef, Baler; Mona Liza and Carrille, La Union, Philippines
Hero: none
Favorite quote: “Take risks in life while you’re still young.”
Favorite band: 3+(Hawaiian Band), Blink 182, Jack Johnson
Favorite movie: none- I love surf videos like Blazing Londboards, Downside
Up, and Words
Name: Alma Nuesca
Birthday: April 8, 1977
Home break: Tourmaline, Pacific Beach, California
Stance: Regular
Favorite board: Board shaped by Masi Saili (9’0” x 3”
x 23, square tail)
Epic spot: Tie between Carrille and Cement Factory, La Union, Philippines
Hero: God
Favorite quote: “Never take things for granted.”
Favorite band: Anything that relaxes my soul like Teresa Bright
Favorite movie: Little Mermaid
When Michael and I started dating, I was a little naïve
with the surfing lifestyle. However, I followed him on all his surfing
excursions in the hopes of understanding why it was such a big part of
his life. It wasn’t until my 25th birthday when Michael paid for
my first private surf lesson, and then proceeded to teach me himself,
that I began to embrace the lifestyle. When Michael realized that I was
beginning to enjoy surfing, he would speak about traveling to the Philippines
to surf. A few years ago, Michael read an article in Surfer’s Journal
and watched a surf video on Cloud Nine, a break in the Philippines. Ever
since then, he has been fascinated on the idea of surfing his birth country.
Also, he would bring up the idea of someday living in the Philippines.
I was hesitant about the idea of moving back to my roots, which seemed
almost foreign to me, since I have been so accustomed to the western lifestyle.
Nonetheless, I supported his dreams, but in the back of my mind, I was
also pessimistic of all his fantasies becoming reality. But, like always,
his fantasies seem to prove me wrong.
Last July (2002) I received a very disturbing call from a relative informing
me that my mother, in the Philippines, was very ill. Michael and I immediately
made plans and saved enough money to last us a few months in the islands.
It was an unfortunate calling (even though my mother is currently doing
well), but at the same time, it was Michael’s chance to finally
pursue his goals.
At the end of October, we were ready to embark on our journey to the Philippines.
Unfortunately, it wasn’t as easy as we expected it to be. As a matter
of fact, we thought Philippine Airlines would ruin our trip. First, we
were charged $450 for our surf case, which carried two long boards and
one short board, after lowering the price from $600. Second, the case
was still in LAX when we arrived in Manila. Third, we were promised that
it would be delivered to our destination during the next day. It didn’t
arrive until three days later, therefore, missing out on great waves and
a competition. Finally, the airlines wanted us to pay $600 for the case
again when we were trying to come back to the US. Michael and I would
have been prepared for the situation if the employees in LAX didn’t
misinform us by saying that the $450 fee was round-trip. We were arguing
with the employees until they finally decided to extend our flight for
free. The only option that we were left with was to stay until we sold
the boards. It is too bad that Philippine Airlines would rip people off
like that, especially now that surfing is becoming a trend in the Philippines.
I could have bought another ticket with that money.
Regardless of our frustrations, we had a blast!!! Besides surfing, we
indulged ourselves in the many festivities that the country had to offer.
For example, my hometown had its annual Town Festival during the month
of November. There were carnivals, dances, basketball games, and booths
of all kinds from clothing to food. We were always surrounded by family,
friends, and even strangers who shared stories, laughed, danced, sang,
played games, drank, partied and many more with us. Most of all, I got
to spent a lot of time with my mother. Outside our surfing expeditions,
we traveled to Baguio, Bicol (Michael’s hometown), Vigan, and Manila.
The highlight of our trip is obviously the surfing and what came along
with that. For instance, we met a lot of good people, and traveled to
different surf destinations. The majority of the time, we surfed the West
of Luzon and went to the East a couple of times.
When we were in La Union, located on the west side of Luzon, we met a
variety of surfers (most became good friends with us). During a short
board competition in November, we met local surfers from around the country.
Some of the best surfers whom we met were Luke Landrigan (La Union), Ian
Saguan (La Union), Allan Cabanilla (Daet), Edmund Mendoza (legendary surfer
from Baler who has been featured in surf magazines internationally and
locally), and most of the girls- Marie, Mickey, Vangie, Daisy, and Mocha
(they rip). Michael and I were amazed and stoked to be surrounded by a
group of people who showed so much talent in the sport and were exceptionally
friendly, hospitable, and funny. In addition to the younger locals, the
old school surfers (retired Australian and Japanese men who were involved
in the evolution of surfing in the Philippines) played a big role in our
trip. These men (Brian, Aki, Machu, Graehm, Reece, and Mike) imparted
their knowledge, friendship and kindness to us. The Manila crew (surfers
and beginners from the big city) showed us how to have a good time when
we were not surfing. Almost every weekend, a handful of them would drive
up to get away from the city. The last group of people whom we met was
the surfers from around the globe. The vast numbers were from Australia,
Japan, and then the US. These friends accompanied us on a few surf excursions,
hung out with us at the resort, and joined us to a couple of nights in
the city.
La Union is very popular for its waves. Michael and I had the opportunity
to surf six different breaks in La Union. Mona Liza (reef break) and Urbiztondo
(beach break) are the primary spots that we surfed nearly every day. Mona
Liza is a right hand point-break. It is one of the most consistent spots
in La Union, which normally breaks from hip-to-well-overhead-high and
can handle up to triple-overhead swells. On the other hand, Urbiztondo
has fun lefts. Usually, it is out of control when Mona Liza is big.
A typical day for us was as follows. From my family’s house, Michael
and I would take a bus early in the morning and arrive in San Juan Surf
Resort thirty minutes later. The resort, owned by Brian Landrigan, was
like our second home. Upon arrival, we would either have breakfast or
go straight to the water. Sometimes when the waves seemed too big for
me, I would videotape Michael’s surfing. After the first session,
we would have lunch. If the wind hasn’t picked up, we would normally
go for another session. If not, we hung out with the locals, and/or the
foreigners until it was time for us to go back to the house, usually before
5pm.
When the surf in Mona Liza or Urbiztondo was big and stormy, there were
other locations that we checked out. Cement Factory (left and right side)
was the very first spot, outside of Mona Liza and Urbiztondo, which we
surfed. Michael and I were so stoked to surf the reef break because, not
only was it breaking perfectly, but we were the only ones out. During
another day, Michael surfed the left side, beach break, alone. Although
he had all the waves to himself, he said that it was very eerie being
the only one surfing.
Between Mona Liza and Cement Factory was a right-handed point break that
we checked out with a few friends named Robert (from Australia), Skip
(from the US), and two female amateur snowboarders from Europe. The guys
went out for a few hours in the morning before the noon wind picked up.
The waves were hip-to-head-high Again, they were the only ones out which
caught the attention of the local people who probably have never seen
a surfboard and girls in their bikinis, especially “white girls.”
Finally, the last and certainly the best break that we encountered in
La Union was Carrille. This was a regular footers paradise. The waves
were breaking just like Malibu, but even longer when the waves hit overhead.
From the moment we arrived (morning), until the time we left (late afternoon)
the waves kept getting better and bigger (hip-to-overhead). Michael went
out for three sessions, while I only surfed a morning and late afternoon.
Because this place breaks infrequently, everyone was out- the locals and
three pro long boarders from Japan and one from England (Sam Bleakley).
Accompanied by the pros was John Callahan, a professional photographer,
who was taking pictures of the three surfers.
For a total of three weeks (two weeks during December and the another
in January), we got to experience the waves on the east coast. It was
quite an adventurous endeavor. From La Union, we took a some-what rugged
nine-hour bus trip to Baler, Aurora. Although we had to drive through
a few hours of rough mountainous roads, the scenic view was astonishing.
When we arrived, Edmund Mendoza immediately welcomed us to Baler. He introduce
us to all his surf buddies and family; when not surfing, kept us companied
everyday and night by simply hanging out-talking, drinking, singing and/or
dancing; gave us a tour of Baler (the waterfalls in the mountain); and
finally showed us all the surf spots including the secret ones.
Baler is yet Michael’s favorite surf destination. He surfed six
out of the seven locations that we checked out. As for myself, I only
surfed two spots. The two spots that I surfed were the beach breaks in
Sabang Beach. There were plenty of lineups, but Michael and I surfed in
front of Bay’s Inn and Aussie Mike’s house (an Australian
surfer who retired there). The beach breaks have good left and right waves.
The best times were in the mornings or late afternoons. In comparison
to La Union, the vast numbers of locals in Sabang could crowd the breaks.
South of Sabang beach was the location of Michael’s favorite breaks.
Cemento, also known as Cobra Reef (for its shape), is a fast hollow right-hand
reef break. Next to it, is called Bowl. This fast and hollow wave only
works on a high tide. While the guys surfed, I kept myself busy by videotaping,
swimming, and exploring the reef. I couldn’t paddle out to these
breaks because it was too fast, big, and shallow.
Another location that Edmund and the guys took us was their secret spot.
This spot, named after Edmund’s nickname (he is a surf legend in
the islands), is a kept secret amongst the locals. The first time we went,
the waves were too blown out. Therefore, we went swimming in the warm
translucent turquoise water of a cove; explored caves; picked beautiful
shells from the powdery white sand, and barbecued. Fortunately, during
our second time around, the guys were able to surf that spot. They were
so stoked because the waves were fast, hollow, and big. Even though it
was extremely fun, they were also extra careful not to fall because the
reef was sharp. As a matter of fact, one of our companions (from Japan)
sliced his foot pretty badly. The last location that Michael got to surf
was another secret beach break. This spot only worked when the other breaks
were closing out.
Finally, Edmund took us to Charlie’s Point. It wasn’t a good
day because the wind was howling. However, we learned that Charlie’s
Point barrels when it is breaking. Michael and I also learned that surfing
was evolved from Charlie’s Point. During the late seventies or early
eighties, Apocalypse Now, was filmed there. After the making, the crew
left the surfboard, which was used for the surfing scene, to the locals.
From then on, surfing has become a big trend.
To sum it up, Philippines has turned out to be a trip of a lifetime. Despite
some of the negative comments that Michael read in the past, we were still
convinced that it would be worth experiencing. Sure enough, during the
four months in the Philippines, we were living it up! Not only were we
blessed with great surf, great food, and great weather, but also a friendship
with people that will definitely last a lifetime. Being with family members
whom we haven’t seen in years was also the biggest delight. With
all that in mind, I do not have any more hesitations about living in the
Philippines. As a matter of fact, Michael and I will be moving there in
November to start our project. We want to open a resort. Hopefully, we
can create an environment that will be enjoyable for travelers so that
they can feel the same love that we have for the country.